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| Frequently
Asked Questions Giclee,
a French word pronounced (jee-klay), simply means "sprays"
or "spurts" of ink. Commonly it is used to refer to fine
art prints/reproductions that are produced on archival papers using
high quality inkjet printers. I already have a digital file of my artwork, can you use that? If
you already have a high resolution digital file of your artwork
(on CD, Zip Disk, or similar) we can proceed directly to color setup.
However, the final printed image will only be as good as the quality
of the original file provided. Therefore if the artwork was photographed/scanned
poorly, the print will reproduce poorly. Even if you are providing
a digital file, we also recommend bringing the original artwork
of at all possible. This is so that we can match the printed colors
to the artwork's actual colors. What is your setup fee and what does it include? We
charge a low, one-time setup fee of $25 per image. This setup includes
a color proof to ensure that the reproduction matches the original.
This setup process is necessary regardless of whether you are providing
the digital file, or whether we have scanned or photographed your
artwork. Why don't the colors just match - why is color setup necessary? Each
device used in capturing, viewing, and printing an image (scanner,
camera, monitor, printer, etc.) puts it's own "spin" on
color. For example, different scanners perceive and record colors
differently - some may add more red, some less, etc. Cameras, whether
film or digital, are greatly affected by the color of ambient lighting.
And while a monitor displays all colors using red, green and blue
pixels, a printer creates colors by mixing cyan, magenta, yellow
and black. So as you can see, color can be a complex and tricky
issue. How much does each print cost? The
cost of the print is determined by two things - which paper you
choose and the size of the print. We normally give each print at
least 1" margins for matting/framing purposes, but if you require
a larger border (to wrap canvas around a stretcher bar for example),
we will add a small amount to the cost of the print. How do I calculate the cost of the print based on square footage? Take the dimensions (in inches) the of the image and multiply them together. Divide that number by 144, and multiply by the price per square foot of the chosen paper type (see above). Example:
A print that measures 18" by 15" printed on watercolor
paper. How do I stretch my canvas giclee print? Before stretching your canvas giclee you will need to spray the print with a fixative/laminate. Spray fixative is available from most art/craft stores and many have non-yellowing and UV protective properties. Spray your print with several light coats in a well ventilated area, following the directions on the product. Because the ink is water-based, it is very important that you spray it with light coats, otherwise the ink might run. Seal the print with spray/laminate on both sides for maximum protection (helps prevent fading as well). Once the print is completely dry, place it face-down on a hard, even, clean, and non-abrasive surface (like a tablecloth or cardboard). Be careful not to scoot the print around on the surface, as this could scratch the ink. If you can't see your image through the canvas, measure and mark where it is on the back-side. Place your stretcher-bar frame to the edges of the image (or just on the inside of the edges). If you planned on having the image wrap over the edges of the frame, place it accordingly. Wrap the canvas around the frame until it is slightly taut. Never stretch the canvas as tight as you would when preparing a canvas to paint on, and do not use stretcher pliers. If you stretch it too tight you will create gaps & cracks in the ink. Staple the canvas on the back-side of the frame as you would normally: starting at the middle of one side, moving to the middle of the opposite side, then to the middle of the 3rd side, and putting the 4th staple at the middle of the last side. Once these 4 staples are in, continue stapling from the middle - out, alternating back and forth on opposite sides of the frame. When you reach the corners, carefully fold them and staple into place. Trim off the excess canvas after you are done. Some
artists also add texture/paint to their canvas giclees. Water-based
acrylic mediums and paints can be added to the surface, but this
should only be done after the canvas has been sprayed and sealed
well. It is also advised that you experiment on a test area first,
so that you don't accidentally over-work the surface and disturb
the ink layer. We are happy to provide test scraps for you to experiment
with. How long will my giclee print last? Your watercolor giclée is printed on mould-made 100% acid free and pH balanced cellulose fiber watercolor paper specially designed and coated to provide a crisp image with no bleeding. Canvas giclees are printed on satin finish, bright white, cotton-poly blend artist canvas base with 3 primer coatings and an inkjet top coat. Both watercolor paper and canvas media are designed for high quality digital fine art reproductions. To produce exceptional detail, brilliance and color gamut, EnduraChrome dye inks are used. These inks feature prolonged UV-durability against fading without sacrificing color brilliance and detail like pigmented inks. According
to laboratory testing, prints using this paper and ink combination
will last at least 20 years before any noticeable fading occurs.
This estimate was derived from tests conducted at 65-75°F, 35-50%
relative humidity (RH), lighting intensity of 400 lux, with the
print displayed under glass, without any overlaminate. Illumination
and other display conditions in homes, offices and galleries do
vary, so depending on how the print is displayed, it may last longer
(likewise, if displayed in poor conditions print life will be shortened).
See www.wilhelm-research.com
for more information. What are the factors that contribute to premature fading?
What are the ways to combat premature fading?
*non-archival
& acidic materials include: cardboard, masking tape, regular
(non-acid free) foam core, the front side of Crescent® and several
other types of matboard (museum board is best). Look for materials
that are “archival” (chemically stable with good aging
properties), pH neutral/balanced (slightly alkaline/”buffered”
is ok, “acid free” is a must), 100% cotton rag, “lignin
free”, or you can always have your print professionally matted
and framed. Additional information on how to properly mat and frame
artwork is available upon request. If
you still have questions please don't hesitate to contact us - info@ddesignor.com |
© 2005 DIGITAL DESIGN OREGON